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When compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. Yet, situated high among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest place securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.